

The LensBaby optics are a fun accessory to play with (no lacking the high degree of correction so evident in pricey TS optics) and don't require (nor expect) detailed knowledge of the principles at work when the focal plane and lens plane are subjected to adjustment: just slap one on and twist and shout! The introduction of bellows in the setup adds a further level of complication and methodical manipulation of the system - especially if the camera in use is LF or completely manual.

The tilt/swing movements of smaller formats (sensors, and 35mm film) achieve close to the same results as large format, but with very much smaller movements than LF. Shift by itself is limited in its usefulness, other than careful pseudo-panorama movement, while shift and tilt is the most useful tool of all, and of which movements are applied both visually or mathematically in applications of precision of modifying the lens plane and depth of field. I have been using Canon's famed TS-E lenses for both landscape and still life, and can tell you results don't come overnight, in a week, over a month or several months, but intensively and repetitively over a longer period of time. A real tilt/shift lens, with at least 11mm of shift (the best is omnidirectional) and 8 degrees of tilt will necessarily set you back a fair amount (they are specialist optics, not toys), and is a lifetime investment in learning and skills development, far removed form the elementary and limited variability built into the camera. I'm not convinced at all of in-camera adjustments.
